Hi, I'm from the UK and I'm wondering what the cost would be for all the stuff I'd need (the pad/controller, wires and the button).

Also, where can I get the pad/controller from?

Great mod by the way, good work!!

what you need to rememeber is to pick a guitar with the proper size for a pad, it need to be flat and have room for the screen

 

i got a kp2 pad of ebay for £90

wires and other things will come to about 30.

u will need a push in hold button too
 

Hi! I´m very interested on installing a kaoss pad in my guitar. But I´m not sure if it would be better to install the new KP3 instead of the KP2. Would I have any different problems installing the kp3 instead of the kp2? Should I do it or the differences between them are not important in a guitar? What about the mini KP?

hey, well korg spares informed me that their replacement screens for the KP-1 are also the same as that for the 2 + 3 as well, so that means that although the motherboard is likely to have some minor differences on the KP3 to phil's KP2 guide or my KP-1 one, which differ slightly, the working and concept itself is exactly the same, and you'd just wire the serial port and everything up the same as for any other one, as the pad uses the same amount of electrical out/ins to the KP-1 (4 connections).

 

good luck

hi phil, i'm looking at doing this again using the existing kp mod in a new epiphone LP special... would drilling to make initial gaps in the wood pose a greater threat to parts of the guitar than chiseling from the start? Also, i'm a bit confused over the frame you made for the KP. I previously had mine simply not, wedged but firm against tape-covered wood with a slight step in places that held it up, then a thin black plastic cover over that covering the edges slightly stopping it falling forwards.. I'd love to put a neat step in like another guy that did his mod an posted recently, but unsure how to achieve this...

 anyway, your help on wha tyou'd suggest in retrospect is probably the best course of action for the body of an Epi LP Special 2, and also whether you'd really recommend I try to do what i did before and not go right through to the back.. from what you achieved with your chisel, would chiselinga neat step, and or a cavity that did not go all the way through. I guess i could in theory drill a small hole then chisel out but that'd have to go all the way through to be effective. anyway, cheers for your help, look forward to hopefully getting something as neat as yours.

-adam

Phil,

 Can you clear up the soldering of the ribbon from the pad? When I removed the pad, the ribbon came away from the white plastic clip it was attached to. I see you have reattached this clip in the guitar - how is this attached? I wasn't too keen on soldering the ribbon directly into place - could you clear this up? Do you attach the ribbon to this clip and then solder the wires from the DB9 to the side of the clip which was originally soldered to the main PCB board (if that makes sense?!) ? (apologies if I'm asking a dumb question here -  my basic electronics skills are woeful..).

 

Cheers,

 Owen.

--I want to do an even more complex project.

--In addition to the pad transplant I also want the "Hold through Rec/Stop" buttons, the "FX Depth" knob and the "Pad Motion/Mute" switch applied to my Gibson SG. Or, possibly make the sampling buttons correspond to a 4-switch foot pedal while still frankensteinning the FX knob and Mute switch.

--Anyone have input on such a task?

 

Q 

A few things to note for those looking to dig in to this project:

 1:  The KP2 has room on the left side of the chassis to mount a 25 pin serial connector so you can wire up the pad and up to 10 buttons to be controlled externally (including the 8 program memory buttons).

 2:  The Dremel "High Speed Cutter" carbide bits with the router extension will rout deep enough into wood to provide an adequate cavity for the touchscreen without having to chisel all the way through your guitar.  This will help minimize the tonal impact the pad will have on the guitar, even more so if you leave out the LED's and only rout for the touchscreen.

 3:  The "hold" button is remarkably effective when wired up as a stompbox.  In fact the small chassis that Small Bear sells works out fantastically as a housing for both the "hold" and "tap/BPM" buttons for those of you who want to take advantage of the BPM effects in a guitar scenario.

 4:  The KP2 will save your "hold" button and "FX depth" settings so that you can recall all of this with the "program memory" buttons.  This is remarkably effective for a guitarist if you wire up the "program memory" buttons to momentary footswitches.  This feature is especially handy for recalling your settings if you screw around on the pad without changing programs at all.

 5:  Almost any 4 wire resistive touchscreen will work for this project.  This includes many PDA touchscreens on ebay that end up selling for just a few bucks, as well as larger computer monitor touchscreens that would be better suited (than the smaller screens) for mounting on a stand of some sort (for those who don't want to tear into a guitar).
 
 6:  Try and use some type of "true bypass" on the Kaoss Pad when you don't plan on using it.  It really is a tone sucker.

---

kendall_weaver at yahoo

I'm thinking about integrating a kaoss pad in my guitar and also this kind of colour changing led system but I would have some question. Actually I don't understand why you need the 2 condensers. Did you need this cause you was pluged to the kaoss, so you have to reduce the disturbances ?

Also I would like to change the speed of the colour changing thanks to a potentiometer. would you have a schematic for this ?

Because as long as I don't know how the led are designed I can't really say how I can do this. Thank you very much

 

And great job

Ps sorry for my english, I'm french

jcex:

Actually I don't understand why you need the 2 condensers.

Condensers??? 

---

kendall_weaver at yahoo

Sorry about that, maybe it's not the correct word, I mean the right part of the schematic the third resistor and the 2 capacites (perhaps it's the apropriate word)

• is there anyone to answer to this ??

why are the capacities used ?

what can I use to change the colour changing speed ? 

would it be possible to use a KP1, KP3 or MINI?

---

Morten --..

mortengh:

would it be possible to use a KP1, KP3 or MINI?

The KP1 has been successfully done a couple of times.  In theory the KP3 and Mini will work, but they're still untested.  I'm going to purchase a KP3 in the near future and see if I can wire it up to be interchangeable with my KP2 in my rig.  I won't have to take the touchscreen out though as I already have the one from the KP2 in my guitar. 

---

kendall_weaver at yahoo

Hey Phil, awesome guide - I was just wondering, when you use the LED, you said it piggybacked from the screen's power right? If you had 3 of the 9 pins left over, wouldn't it be possible to run the KP2's proper LEDs wired up through 2 of these? Was there a reason you didn't do this or isn't it possible?