Hi everyone,

another Englishman here. I'm new to the whole guitar modding thing, so i am enlisting the help of several friends with skills in electronics and carpentry to help me along the way so that I can have a nicely finished guitar.

If anyone has the measurements of the kaoss (kp2) touch pad that would be fantastic as i do not have mine as of yet and i'd like to get on with as much preparatory work as possible.

If anyone could help it would be brilliant

thanks

Matt. 

Hello

I am Cecile Boudot a French student. I study sciences and I need to learn more about the kaoss pad  for a quite important project.

I would like to know how the touch screen works (what kind of sensors?) and what enables the links between the screen and the rest of the kaoss pad.

In fact: What is a synthesizer? Have you got information about that?

Thank you for reading 

See you soon 

Hi, i really want to do this a a guitar im going to buy a cheap les paul so i dont get confused lol but anyway i have a few questions too ask (by the way i havent read all of this yet because i havent had the time)

 1. what kaoss pad did you use

2. could you tell me how i could put a kill switch on the guitar especially for the kaoss pad

3. how could i make it wireless so i dont need two leeds, i only want one

4.  what does the extra button do

5. what do you do with the rest of the kaos pad after putting the touchscreen part on the guitar

thats about it lol thanks alot =D

MUSIC_MAN654321:

 1. what kaoss pad did you use

2. could you tell me how i could put a kill switch on the guitar especially for the kaoss pad

3. how could i make it wireless so i dont need two leeds, i only want one

4.  what does the extra button do

5. what do you do with the rest of the kaos pad after putting the touchscreen part on the guitar

Hi, me and a friend are doing this mod and we've researched everything we can - most, if not all, of the information you need is here.
In answer to your questions...

1 - A Kaoss Pad 2 was used - they're on EBay at around £90-£120 (when the bidding is finished).

2 - for a killswitch, you need to run 2 wires from your output jack (there should be two wires already on - run them off these) and then into a switch (ON/OFF).
When the switch is on, the signal will be grounded and the result will be a kill effect.
If, like us, you want a three way switch where the KILL is the middle position, you need a three way toggle switch (not an ON-OFF-ON) switch and must wire the middle connections together...

3 - To make it wireless, you would need a wireless guitar system (unless you're not bothered about your standard lead being there).
For the DB-9 connection, you wouldn't be able to do this unless you were very clever. A simple solution is to research wireless midi devices and wire up all your connections through a midi (DIN) cable and into a wireless transmitter, then from the wireless reciever into the KP2 (replacing the DB-9 Phil mentions with another MIDI port).

4 - The extra button (if you mean the latching push-to-make), replaces the Kaoss Pad's HOLD function so you can hold your effect position.

5 - the rest of the Kaoss pad needs a DB-9 connection (read Phil's guide) and possibly a cover where the screen was... You then connect your guitar through a mic input or line in and the DB-9 cable goes into the DB-9 socket you should have put in the Kaoss Pad.
The DB-9 cable will carry all the information from the touch screen and the HOLD button back to the Kaoss pad and it will work from your guitar.

I'll admit it is a little confusing, but I've tried to explain as best I can...
If you have any other questions or anything, just contact me directly or someone else on here who knows what they're doing...

Hey I was thinking of doing this as a summer project with my Starcaster. I know, its not that great of a guitar, which is why i want to do this with it. Only problem is, im not sure if this will fit? Maybe I could use a mini-kaoss if i needed to.
 

Thanks, HP 

P.S.

It would be awesome if some1 did this and got video and/or step by step pics (like more specific than these), it would make it a lot less confusing. 

Reply to: HP

A little trick I learnt when researching mine...

If there's room for two humbuckers or 4 single coils - like this...

Then it's likely a KP2 will fit... This way you can tell from an online photo or your own guitar.

There are some people who've used a mini-kp although I'm not sure if there's any instructions online.
As I go along making mine, I'll take some in-depth notes and photos and maybe post them online for people, although I doubt I'll be able to explain it any better.

Hope it helps,
Oddbod92

Sweet, thanks Oddbod. Looks like there's room. Maybe i can find a Guitar Center or somewhere that carries them and measure them and compare it to the space under my bridge.

About the pictures and notes, i'm not saying this is good (its great really), I really just like having a good amount of step-by-step pictures that i can constantly reference to. I'm only 15 and i've never done any intimate wood or tech working. I know the basics of soldering from watching my dad do it, but i have never done it myself.

Granted, my guitar isn't great, in fact some would say its crap, but i'm still nervous because i use it, and its decent, no matter what other people say. I can say with absolute certainty that i will not be doing this with my Gibson LP.

I also have another question. When you mount the connector onto (in this case, plexiglass), did you just drill two screws into the plexiglass and screw them into the connector? And i just saw something about it, what's a sucker? For the solder. Sorry for the questions but i like to clarify before i do something. Im really cautious.

Thanks again,

HP
 

I assume you mean the DB9 connector onto the plexiglass? If so, you can get some special screws that will allow you to fasten it in place, but still let you screw the cable in.
The Plexiglass onto the Guitar is just screws - I'd recommend three down each long side.

A 'sucker' is a de-solder(ing) pump. You heat the solder up and then use the 'sukcer' to remove the solder if it's wrong or no longer needed.

However, because we (me and a friend) are rather strange, we opted to replace the guitar jack, rather than add a D-sub, so the guitar signal is now carried down the D-Sub. This is a complicated thing to explain how to do, so I'd recommend going by what Phil says...

In the next few weeks, we'll be carrying out a KP2 mod so I'll send you the pics of the process; although it's likely you'll be doing it slightly differently - all the same the pics will show you how to take the KP2 apart and fit it into the guitar etc...

Also: It's better to be cautious than destroy everything :D

"It's better to be cautious than destroy everything :D"

My thoughts exactly haha. My dad said he could probably help me tackle this project during the summer. I look forward to your help and seeing how yours turns out!

If you need it, my email is hpotency@hotmail.com if you can't get it from my profile here. 

Hey,

 So I have decided to begin this project in the upcoming week or so and I have a few questions and want to know if anyone has any advice before I dig in.

1. Anything that anybody would/should have done in retrospect?

2. I know I want the hold button, but say I want the memory buttons, sample buttons, etc too...  Is it as simple as the wiring of the hold button that paul explained or is there more to it?  (I am planning on using db15 so i have room for things like that)

3. Does having a loop station or a Fernandes/sustainiac open up opportunities for the kp2 since you have a repeating or sustaining sound to play with?

4. Off of the kp2, I have heard of people putting like MXR phasers right into the guitar.  Do they just extend the input/output wires and place the circuit board under the kp2??
 

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

-Jake